Three Coins?

Rome was not built in a day ... and neither was the Trevi Fountain!


As Tim explained in his presentation to the group today, Rome's largest baroque fountain was in the works for over 130 years - through the reign of several popes and several more architects. But the history of the Trevi goes back even further. Thanks to Augustus's chief engineer and right-hand man, the superbly skilled Marcus Agrippa (and a helpful Virgin) the Aqua Virgo aqueduct was built sometime around 19 BC, bringing the cleanest, purest water to the Campus Martius area of ancient Rome. Conveniently this was also the area of Agrippa's large bathing complex. But hey, Agrippa didn't only build this aqueduct; he also developed the first truly organized water system in all of Rome. Roman citizens could boast an incredible number of fountains, public baths, and even two man-made lakes in their city.

While the Aqua Virgo wasn't Rome's only aqueduct it was arguably the most important. It ran completely under ground, which protected it from vandalism - well, at least for a while. Tim explained that unfortunately, what was once Rome's greatest glory later turned out to be her Achilles heel. Gothic invaders sacking the city in the 6th century sabotaged the water system, and in so doing were able to effectively control the populace. In little time, without clean water in the city, the population dwindled, and the aqueducts that were still running, fell into complete disrepair.


Fast forward about 1000 years ... to the return of the papacy to Rome and the period of rebuilding that followed. Renaissance popes recognized the importance of restoring the aqueducts and the propagandistic value of bringing water back to the people. Special attention was given to restoring the Aqua Virgo, now the newly named Acqua Vergine. Pope after pope would leave his mark ... ever improving, and renovating both the aqueduct and the fountain that acted as its terminus. Even the wonder-boy, Bernini, was given a shot to design a whole new terminus that would rival anything before seen in Rome. However an uproar ensued when Urban VIII tried to fund this project by placing an unpopular tax on the Roman's wine ... Bernini's fountain was never built.


The fountain we see today was designed by a young architect, Nicola Salvi, in the 1730's (although several artists would have a hand the final outcome of the design.) Basically the symbolism represents the power and benefits of water, in all its forms. Hoping to capture some of that famed prosperity provided by its pure waters, we all threw coins over our shoulder in hopes of returning to Rome someday. One of Rome's most famous tourist sites, over $3500 per day is collected from the basin of the Trevi and distributed to the Red Cross and a local soup kitchen.

Then it was time to break. Students scurried off to prepare for this afternoons Italian exam. Julie and I arrived during the second half of the exam where pairs of students presenting dialogues in Italian - situations such as ordering lunch at a restaurant:

getting a hotel room:

and navigating the Italian social scene:

Everyone did great and it looked like they had a lot of fun too. I am sure the group will all miss Fede. Arriverderci! Ci vediamo domani!

Lisa

Riones of Roma

On Tuesday we visited four Riones (i.e. neighborhoods) of Rome: Regola, Trastevere, Vatican (not technically a rione), and Ponte. The students worked in pairs to present their chosen Rione, and they all discovered hidden gems and fun facts about their Italian neighborhoods. We had quite a walk on our Rione route--not one break and no whining except from the under age set, who needed Pringles and Pizza Bianca to keep fueled and whine-free.

The first Rione visited was Regola (rione VII). Regola is adjacent to the Campo de' Fiori and is named for sand deposit after floods in the area. It is close to the Tiber and is an exhilarating combination of industry, craftsman shops, government buildings, churches, schools, and anti-mafia institute. The streets are named for trades traditionally done in this area.
Guilia Street is a lovely road that was given a face lift (year?) in order to more easily transport politicians to the area.

The Regola Coat of Arms:


The ghost of Beatrice Cenci is said to haunt the area and appears on the Sant' Angelo bridge on the eve of her execution. Palazzo Cenci is in Regola and the site of the former home of poor Beatrice.


Guilia and Derek gave the class an informative, entertaining, and surprising presentation (vaults with bones as art, Michelangelo influenced architecture, a magical 3-D garden, and a ghost).

Natalia and Lauren took us to our second Rione visit, Trastevere, rione VIII (pronounced "Tras-TEH-ve-raye" = across (tras) the Tiber (Tevere) River) or "around the river". Say that 100 times; you'll eventually get it right. Trastevere is across the Ponte Sisto bridge from Regola. It's a lively, boho place, perfect for travelers, poets, and students. Trastevere is home to John Cavot University, the American Academy, the Pratt Institute, and several other universities. Seattle native and itinerate traveler, Rick Steves, writes: "Trastevere...unwinds to the chime of the church bells, go there and wander, wonder, be a poet." Trastevere is home to Santa Maria in Trastevere. The area has long been a home to immigrants, and it continues to attract a diverse community. However, it is a gentrified area with art galleries, exclusive shops, and many restaurants (and a spa next to a hospital of infectious disease). Contradictions still exist in Trastevere.



Rapheal's girlfriend, the baker's daughter, worked at the local forno in Trastevere. We were also introduced to the electric bus #115 which would have taken us up to Janiculum, the highest point within the walls of Rome.

Natalia and Lauren treated us to chocolates during our tour. Photos coming soon...

After Trastevere, Erika and Conner walked us along the Tiber to the Vatican. The Vatican is a separate city-state within Rome with its own post office, pharmacy, train, school, police (Swiss Guard) and bank. It also has its own license plate (SCV I) and currency. In addition, its radio station broadcasts in 39 languages across the globe. The Vatican is an international community, attracting pilgrims, tourists, politician, and church officials. Did you know that the Swiss Guard wear colorful blue, red, and yellow uniforms during the day and then switch to navy at night? Bella Figura!


Erika and Conner treated us to postcards (.15 cents!), and we all had the opportunity to mail a card home from the Vatican Post Office.

Finally, Nick and Sijia quickly lead us to the last rione of the day, Ponte, Rione V. We first stopped at Ponte Sant' Angleo, a.k.a. St. Peter's bridge. This bridge is over 2,000 years old and has a sordid history (drownings and executions). It was built by Hadrian in 136 AD. The historic pilgrimage walk winds through Ponte. Modern day Ponte has tourists in place of pilgrims. It is, however, less touristed than other areas near by. Ponte is also known as the "renaissance district". Nick and Sijia led us (at a fast clip!) to the center of Ponte and past many exclusive shops. They also showed us a "German church", priests on roller skates (video coming soon!), and the Apollo Theatre.

The weather in Rome during our rione walks was gorgeous. No rain on the border today!

Bernini and Borromini!

The rivalry between the two giants of 17th century architecture, Bernini and Borromini, is the stuff of legends and we set out early Monday morning to see the results of their fruitful competition for ourselves. First stop, the church of Santa Maria della Vittoria and Giulia's presentation of the Cornaro chapel.


Cardinal Federico Cornaro hailed from Venice and could claim at least 6 ancestors who had served the church in the role he now occupied. His father had even been a Doge! This chapel was not only the site for Federico's burial but it would serve to venerate his distinguished family as well. Giulia reviewed the complicated climate of the post counter-reformation in Rome and Cornaro's religious goals for the chapel. She explained Cornaro's choice of the newly canonized, and somewhat problematic, St Teresa for the main altarpiece (she was a woman; a conversa; a mystic who had been tried as a heretic; and she stressed autonomy - a direct experience with god ... but she was also one of the churches newest saints and the power of her personal story would make good fodder in the Catholic war against the Protestants.) Who better to bring this complicated commission and its goals to light than the endlessly-talented Bernini?


The formal and thematic changes Bernini made to the traditional depiction of St. Teresa in Ecstasy provide the clues to the goals he was trying to accomplish. Rich colored marbles, hidden light sources, subtle iconography, painted stucco ... the entire chapel works as a bel composto that draws the viewer into the miracle of St Teresa, but at the same time, Bernini controls our experience and keeps us from getting too close. We are therefore reminded of the authority of the church and the central role it plays in salvation (even in independently minded people like Teresa.)

Next, it was time for a direct comparison of Bernini and Borromini using the side-by-side churches of San Carlino and San Andrea al Quirinale as our models.



Borromini - lacked social graces, paranoid, depressed ... Bernini - had the love of the papacy, countless commissions, and seemingly endless innovation and talent ... But could Bernini really be exploiting Borromini and taking credit for his inventions?? We may never know that truth of that one ... but the two did borrow from and influence each other. In San Carlino we saw how Borromini worked on a small scale, never used color - all his interiors are painted white, and his effects are attained by purely architectural means. Where in San Andrea Bernini has created a jewelbox rich in colored marbles, iconographic detail and theatricality. The group was evenlly split when asked to choose which church was their favorite.


After all that churchin' we all deserved a quick stop at Tazza d'Oro for cafe and coronetti. Then it was time to break - some students went to work on their upcoming rione projects; some went grocery shopping; some went to take naps before the afternoon Italian class. In the afternoon the sun finally came out turning the sky an impossible blue. Che bella!


Salute!! Here is to our last two weeks in Rome! We will miss it! Lisa and Julie