Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Riones of Roma

On Tuesday we visited four Riones (i.e. neighborhoods) of Rome: Regola, Trastevere, Vatican (not technically a rione), and Ponte. The students worked in pairs to present their chosen Rione, and they all discovered hidden gems and fun facts about their Italian neighborhoods. We had quite a walk on our Rione route--not one break and no whining except from the under age set, who needed Pringles and Pizza Bianca to keep fueled and whine-free.

The first Rione visited was Regola (rione VII). Regola is adjacent to the Campo de' Fiori and is named for sand deposit after floods in the area. It is close to the Tiber and is an exhilarating combination of industry, craftsman shops, government buildings, churches, schools, and anti-mafia institute. The streets are named for trades traditionally done in this area.
Guilia Street is a lovely road that was given a face lift (year?) in order to more easily transport politicians to the area.

The Regola Coat of Arms:


The ghost of Beatrice Cenci is said to haunt the area and appears on the Sant' Angelo bridge on the eve of her execution. Palazzo Cenci is in Regola and the site of the former home of poor Beatrice.


Guilia and Derek gave the class an informative, entertaining, and surprising presentation (vaults with bones as art, Michelangelo influenced architecture, a magical 3-D garden, and a ghost).

Natalia and Lauren took us to our second Rione visit, Trastevere, rione VIII (pronounced "Tras-TEH-ve-raye" = across (tras) the Tiber (Tevere) River) or "around the river". Say that 100 times; you'll eventually get it right. Trastevere is across the Ponte Sisto bridge from Regola. It's a lively, boho place, perfect for travelers, poets, and students. Trastevere is home to John Cavot University, the American Academy, the Pratt Institute, and several other universities. Seattle native and itinerate traveler, Rick Steves, writes: "Trastevere...unwinds to the chime of the church bells, go there and wander, wonder, be a poet." Trastevere is home to Santa Maria in Trastevere. The area has long been a home to immigrants, and it continues to attract a diverse community. However, it is a gentrified area with art galleries, exclusive shops, and many restaurants (and a spa next to a hospital of infectious disease). Contradictions still exist in Trastevere.



Rapheal's girlfriend, the baker's daughter, worked at the local forno in Trastevere. We were also introduced to the electric bus #115 which would have taken us up to Janiculum, the highest point within the walls of Rome.

Natalia and Lauren treated us to chocolates during our tour. Photos coming soon...

After Trastevere, Erika and Conner walked us along the Tiber to the Vatican. The Vatican is a separate city-state within Rome with its own post office, pharmacy, train, school, police (Swiss Guard) and bank. It also has its own license plate (SCV I) and currency. In addition, its radio station broadcasts in 39 languages across the globe. The Vatican is an international community, attracting pilgrims, tourists, politician, and church officials. Did you know that the Swiss Guard wear colorful blue, red, and yellow uniforms during the day and then switch to navy at night? Bella Figura!


Erika and Conner treated us to postcards (.15 cents!), and we all had the opportunity to mail a card home from the Vatican Post Office.

Finally, Nick and Sijia quickly lead us to the last rione of the day, Ponte, Rione V. We first stopped at Ponte Sant' Angleo, a.k.a. St. Peter's bridge. This bridge is over 2,000 years old and has a sordid history (drownings and executions). It was built by Hadrian in 136 AD. The historic pilgrimage walk winds through Ponte. Modern day Ponte has tourists in place of pilgrims. It is, however, less touristed than other areas near by. Ponte is also known as the "renaissance district". Nick and Sijia led us (at a fast clip!) to the center of Ponte and past many exclusive shops. They also showed us a "German church", priests on roller skates (video coming soon!), and the Apollo Theatre.

The weather in Rome during our rione walks was gorgeous. No rain on the border today!

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